Olive oil always occupied a special place in my grandmother’s
home. Before she married and came to America, my grandmother had been a cook in the
household of a family of Italian nobles in her native Sicily. She kept most everything near at hand,
except for the olive oil and wine. I
often wondered why the giant cans of olive oil were kept apart from the host of
other cooking condiments and products she used in her household.
Both these items were stored in the cellar until she could
use them. When it was time to bring
them to the kitchen, she placed the olive oil at the bottom of a cupboard in the
pantry where it was cool and dark. There was only one grade of olive oil. Most olive oil had the same wonderful taste
whether you used it to fry an egg with garlic or to sauté a wide array of herbs,
vegetables, and meats. Both my
grandparents would take weekly shopping trips by train to New York City’s Little
Italy to buy products they could not obtain in their hometown markets.
Olive oil produced in the U.S. does not
have to comply with the international standards of the IOOC (International Olive
Oil Council). The IOOC sets quality
standards for about ninety-five percent of the olive oil produced in the
world. Instead, the U.S. subscribes
to the quality standards set by the U.S Department of Agriculture.
So what’s the poor consumer to do? Being informed of olive oil production quality
is a good idea. The following terms mean pretty much what they say if the olive
oil was made in Italy,
Greece, Spain or any of
the other countries which must meet IOOC standards.
Extra-Virgin Olive Oil has the best taste and is also the
most expensive. It comes from the first
pressing of the olives and has acidity limited to 0.8 percent or less. The oil has not be ‘refined’ which means
chemically treated to neutralize certain tastes.
Olive Oil – Described in this way can be a combination of
virgin and refined oils. It has low
acid content, but is lacking the more compelling taste of extra-virgin olive
oil.
Imported from Italy – doesn’t necessarily mean that
it was grown there. The olives could
have come from Greece,
Spain, Turkey
or elsewhere. Simply put, it was merely
bottled in Italy.
These foregoing designations are the most important for the
consumer to understand but there are some additional things you should know
about labeling for oils produced in the United States. Olive Oil produced in the
United
States is graded according to USDA
standards.
Light Olive Oil – This is a popular label for U.S olive oil
producers. Many people believe that this refers to lower caloric content. Nothing could be further from the truth. Olive oil is a fat. Any kind of olive oil has a caloric content
of about 120 calories per tablespoonful. The designation ‘light’ refers to the lighter
color of this oil.
One Hundred percent Olive Oil is a description not to be
entirely trusted. It’s often of lower
quality. Pick the virgin olive oil
unless you’re going to use it for basic frying, According to rules established by the USDA in
1948, olive oil grades are: Fancy, Choice, Standard, and Substandard. Tells you a lot, doesn’t it? Tells you to go for the foreign brand or
join the chorus of voices calling for the US to meet the
higher IOOC standards.
Medical researchers tell us that olive oil is full of healthy
monounsaturated fats which lower ‘bad’ LDL cholesterol and raise ‘good’ HLD
cholesterol. Olive oil is also known for
its antioxidant properties. You might as well spend the extra money for
better taste, better health, and the most bang for your buck. After you’ve bought the right olive oil
product, keep it in a cool dark place away from heat. Penetrating sunlight can cause the olive oil
to break down. It can be stored in a
refrigerator but this causes the liquid to cloud up. Don’t worry, it soon returns to its clear
state when brought to your countertop.
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